Winter Adventures in Spain

Winter Adventures in Spain

What could possibly be more exciting than to travel the world two up with your partner? Travelling on two Adventure Bikes of course! Last summer Fiona passed her motorcycle licence and we immediately planned our winter escape to Morocco. We wanted to get away from the cold, immerse ourselves in a new culture but most importantly discover Morocco’s vibrant colours and rugged landscape on two wheels. What could possibly go wrong? 

Less than 24 hours before we were due to board the ferry from France to Morocco we received some news. All ferry services to Morocco were suspended until further notice! With most places too cold to ride in the middle of winter, we chose the only sensible option. Keep heading south and find adventures in Spain! We definitely underestimated the amount of fun we would be having. We were spoiled with off-road trails, scenic rides and even surprised at how varied the landscape was! Fiona and I had both travelled across Spain before, but never on two wheels. We were about to discover it all over again on a whole new level! 

We crossed the border on our Tiger 900 Rally Pros into Spain following the scenic coastline along the ‘Route d’Espagne’ also known as D914. It’s renowned for tight turns, panoramic views and more often than not, extreme winds. In our case, this meant facing winds of 70 km/h. To tell the truth, I was out of my comfort zone. And I was also worried about Fiona. She had only been riding for about a week and this was the first time she would be riding twisty mountain roads. But there was no reason to worry at all. Fiona was not at all discouraged by the winds. In fact, she didn’t seem to mind the wind at all. She was pumping with adrenaline and leaning hard into the corners. I was barely able to keep up! 

Our first stop was the mountain range just north of Barcelona. ‘Park Natural de Montseny’ was the perfect playground for our first off-road adventures in Spain. Wide dirt roads leading up and down the mountains, not too challenging, yet super fun to ride. Fiona threw herself into the off-road world and decided to learn the fast way. She was fearless! This resulted in her first few bike drops of course. But they seemed to have the opposite effect they usually have on me. After each bike drop, she immediately got up, giggled and was ready to pick up her bike and jump straight back onto it. Instead of feeling discouraged, she was left hungry for more. 

Next we headed inland to the Montsec mountain range to discover an incredible sight of sheer cliffs surrounded by lush green mountains and turquoise waters. The ‘Muralla de Finestres’ is said to resemble the Great Wall of China. We had to see this for ourselves! Despite the rain we rode through the National Park and were surprised to have it all to ourselves. The first part of the way led us mainly through some dirt roads with a few muddy puddles. But as we got closer the twisty mountain roads turned very rocky and the ride became very challenging. With sunset just over an hour away and neither of us comfortable to tackle the terrain at night we found ourselves turning around. And just as we cleared the hardest section we saw the sign for ‘Muralla de Finestres’. It turned out we had gone way too far, when we missed the sign over an hour ago. But we also lost a lot of energy, time and sunlight conquering the rocky roads. As a result we chose to turn back to the hotel and exit the National Park before sunset. Despite not reaching our intended destination, we didn’t feel disappointed. We had a great day riding off-road and were happy to return the next day.The following morning we saw that the trails we were riding had turned pretty muddy overnight. We would have to return to discover this natural wonder another time! For now, we chose to keep riding and explore our first desert instead. 

The Monegros desert is a huge stone and sand desert in the northeast of Spain, located within the Sierra de Jubierre mountain range. We were surprised to find ourselves in this dry, deserted landscape we had never even heard of. This region of Spain is prone to high temperatures, droughts and very little rainfall. But as we were visiting in winter the riding temperatures were much more bearable. Exploring and getting lost in this surreal landscape made us feel like we were a million miles away from Europe. Most of the dirt roads were wide and flat leading us past canyons, salty lagoons and unusual rock formations! Once again there was nobody to be seen on the trails. It was just us, our Tiger 900 Rally Pros and a ton of wind! The terrain wasn’t particularly challenging this time. We managed it quite well fully-loaded. But riding in these strong winds definitely drained our energy faster than we are used to. 

We continued riding further west. Most days we enjoyed bright blue skies, sunshine, temperatures around 15 degrees and strong winds that made it feel a lot colder than it was. The evenings were pretty chilly though and the mornings started off with temperatures around -2 degrees Celsius. Our gear kept us warm and our heated seats were a true luxury. But we were both ready to head to the south of Spain and enjoy warmer riding days. First we had to make it to Madrid though. Fiona broke her handguards during one of our first off-road rides in the mountains. We were hoping that Touratech could replace them with something sturdier, which would offer more protection. 

Once we reached Touratech we were greeted by Yago. He enthusiastically rolled the Tiger into his shop to take a look at the handguards. But he soon noticed another issue that was a far greater concern. Unknown to us, Fiona had cracked the front subframe cast. Although it didn’t stop her from riding the bike, a further crash could cause significant damage to the bike. Luckily Triumph was located nearby and we could ride across on my bike to collect the spare part. But unfortunately, none were in stock. And due to Brexit and customs delays it would take several days to arrive from the UK. So we parked up Fiona’s Tiger and decided to explore the area around Madrid two up. 

One of the most impressive day trips was the 60 miles ride north to Segovia. We followed the main road along the CL-601 surrounded by snow capped mountains. The ‘Navacerrada Pass’ is very scenic, has some steep sections and some hairpin turns around the “Las 7 revueltas”. As we reached the highest elevation of 1857 meters the temperature dropped pretty quickly and the pine forests around us were completely covered in snow. But we were lucky to enjoy the ride on dry asphalt roads in the sun and the temperature quickly increased as we rode down the mountain again. The ride into Segovia took us directly past its iconic symbol - one of the best preserved roman aqueducts, made up of 165 impressive arches, which runs directly through the city. After parking the bikes nearby we enjoyed walking along the cobblestone streets, ancient alleyways and charming squares. Apart from the stunning architecture, we quickly discovered that Segovia is a foodies paradise. A whole roasted suckling pig may not be everyone’s first choice but we found many other traditional dishes from this region to try. After a long lunch break we decided to head back to Madrid. But this time we took some detours on small twisty roads in the Sierra Norte de Guadarrama Natural Park. We followed a gravel road which took us through the forest but we soon found ourselves unable to avoid the snow. In addition it seemed to be getting colder the further we got so we didn’t take long before turning around and taking the main road back to the city. 

Fiona’s bike was finally fixed up and ready to go. By now we had enjoyed a good mix of scenic mountain roads, off-road adventure, cultural experiences and delicious tapas. We were ready to ride all the way to the south of Spain and embrace warmer climates. But there was one more city in the mountains of east-central Spain that we wanted to explore along our way. A  picturesque walled town named Cuenca. It is dramatically built atop the sheer limestone cliffs of two deep river gorges. We rode our Tigers past cobblestone lanes, along medieval buildings and castle ruins until we reached ‘Mirador Barrio del Castillo’. It’s a fantastic viewpoint that provides a very unique view of the ‘casas colgadas’ which refers to the hanging houses clinging on to steep, rocky slopes. This was one of our favourite places we visited during our roadtrip through Spain. A perfect last stop before a long ride south! 

Our first destination in the south of Spain was the ‘Parque Natural del Cabo de Gata-Nijar’. To get here we rode to the most southeastern corner of Spain. We were surprised by a hot desert climate which welcomed us with a pretty wild and isolated landscape. As we rode through the National Park we passed volcanic mountains, jagged cliffs, hidden coves and beautiful stretches of sandy beaches. After a long, scenic ride past coastal dunes, saltpans and dry river beds, we stopped for lunch in an old fishing village. It felt really good to finally be back by the sea, in warmer climates. We enjoyed the moment with some delicious seafood overlooking the quiet cove which I imagined would be completely packed in the summer. After a beautiful sunset ride out of the National Park we spent the night in Almeria. It’s a nearby city which proved to be a good base for the next stretch of our trip! 


The next morning we rode along the A-92 which took us straight through the ‘Desierto de Tabernas’, often referred to as Europe’s Wild Wild West. We found ourselves surrounded by these huge, rugged sandstone mountains which looked really impressive. Naturally we turned off, desperate to find some dirt roads that would take us right into the middle of it. The first few minutes of our off-road ride looked promising and we immediately mounted our Go Pros to film what we thought would be another epic off-road adventure. Unfortunately all that we discovered was a deserted Wild Wild West film set with no way to continue into the desert. So we turned back and continued riding north. Our ultimate destination was ‘Alto de Velefique’, a surfaced road boasting 20 hairpins surrounded by the imposing peaks of the ‘Sierra Fraibrales’ mountain range. To get there, we followed the AL-3102 which is a very scenic ride on twisty roads with bone dry scrubland on either side of it. The winding roads soon turned into switchbacks as we approached ‘Alto de Velefique’. And what a ride that was! A biker’s paradise and thankfully so underrated that it doesn’t attract a crowd. In fact, we didn’t see anybody at all until we reached the top and pulled into ‘Mirador del Pedregal’. It’s a popular biker’s stop and offers stunning views of the hairpin turns. Of course it’s also a great picnic stop, so Fiona and I started rummaging through our tank bags for fruit, crisps and whatever snacks we could find. As we sat on a large rock overlooking the valley I couldn’t believe how quiet it was. There was literally no traffic at all. A big contrast to the busy Alpine roads we had been riding in Austria just the previous year. After our break we continued down the main road. We couldn’t resist the temptation of taking a few off-road short cuts along the way which all eventually led back to the mainroad. 

 

We kept following it all the way until it eventually turned into A-334 towards the Parque Natural Sierra de Baza. Our next destination was the Gorafe desert, an area of spectacular badlands with unusual sandstone formations. A dirt track with barren trees led us into the desert. As we rode on the dry, dusty trails we had phenomenal views of the valley to our left. The landscape was a mix of canyons and ravines with almost no vegetation around. It’s not hard to guess how this place acquired its nickname ‘Los Coloraos’. The canyons seemed painted in all sorts of red, ochre and brown tones. We imagined that sunrise or sunset would have been pretty spectacular out here. And with the sun already so low in the late afternoon the colours were breathtaking. We were soaking in the views from above whilst riding our Tigers along the dusty roads fully-loaded. Then we descended into the village of Gorafe itself on a steep windy road which turned from dirt, to broken asphalt, then proper tarmac once we reached the town. We rode past dolmens and cave houses in this picturesque village surrounded by this unusually harsh landscape. It was starting to get dark so we took the mainroad to Granada, our base for the next few days. 

Granada is a must-see city if you are planning to ride across Andalusia. Fiona and I enjoyed exploring the vibrant neighbourhoods and marvel at the grand architecture as we got lost in the maze-like cobbled streets. And everytime we stopped for a drink we were served a free tapa - a long-standing tradition of this region in Spain. I lost count of how many tapas we ate over the next few days as we soaked in the infectious vibe of the city. From the mirador you have unrestricted views of the imposing Alhambra - a captivating palace and fortress surrounded by snow capped mountains. 

We loved every moment we spent in Granada but we were itching to get back onto the bike. So when some friends invited us to join an off-road training at the Triumph Adventure Experience in Malaga we didn’t have to think twice. It was Fiona’s first off-road training. As for me, I’m always surprised how easily we forget the basics when we don’t practice. So it was great focusing on slow speed manoeuvres, building up from there and then putting what we learnt into practice on the impressive training ground. We also loved the location and the ride from Malaga along the twisty roads to the training facility was brilliant. It is surrounded by the ‘Sierra de las Nieves’ National Park and endless off-road trails. 

On the last day Fiona and I just wanted to ride dirt roads across the stunning mountains. It truly was one of the most beautiful off-road riding days we got to experience in Spain. We weren’t following any navigation, just picking random trails and seeing where they would lead to. This worked pretty well for the majority of the day. Then Fiona, who was riding up front, started picking some smaller, steeper and rockier trails. At first I was up for the challenge but then the trail started to get extremely narrow, almost completely covered in dry grass shrubs with a pretty intimidating drop to the left of me. I was definitely out of my comfort zone! Fiona continued but soon came to a stop as the trail suddenly ended. Turning the bikes around on this steep and ridiculously narrow trail was a mission. The sun was also about to set so we called it a day and started heading back. Fiona was leading the way and as always on steeper sections I kept a safe distance. Once she cleared the first part, I followed when I suddenly heard a scream in my intercom. I had no idea what was happening around the corner but I came to a complete stop, towards the end of a steep, rocky trail. Fiona was fine. She hadn’t come off. But I had put myself in a terrible position. I tried to pull off, slipping the clutch ever so slightly, while paddling with my long legs, before committing to throttle out of it. Big mistake! Suddenly the bike wasn’t moving. I was in gear, the bike wasn’t stalling but I wasn’t moving either. My initial thoughts were that I burned out the clutch disks. In the middle of nowhere, on a steep trail, just as the sun was setting. Great! We made a few calls to get some help. Then Antonio from Billy Goat Garage who also runs the Triumph Adventure Centre offered to rescue us. He had finished work already, cancelled his plans for the evening and didn’t even hesitate to help out some stranded bikers. It took over an hour for him to meet us at the beginning of the trail. We had ridden two up out of the National Park to make sure that we didn’t have to ride off-road when it’s pitch black. We were so happy to see him pull in with a trailer and our friend Kate who happened to be with Antonio when we called her initially for help. Fiona and I jumped in the car and the four of us made our way to the bike. Of course the trails were far too narrow to fit a car and a trailer. But luckily we were only 400 metres from the dirt road where we could park the car. As we walked down the trail we all started realising that it would be pretty hard work to push the bike up, especially with all the rocks and shrubs along the way. And it was brutal! I wondered if we would make it. But Antonio had a wealth of experience rescuing bikes from the mountains. As annoying as it was dealing with this in the dark, he never had any doubts that we would eventually push the bike up, strap it onto the trailer and tow it back to his garage! All that and a big smile on his face and the reassurance that it was “no trouble at all”. 

On the last day Fiona and I just wanted to ride dirt roads across the stunning mountains. It truly was one of the most beautiful off-road riding days we got to experience in Spain. We weren’t following any navigation, just picking random trails and seeing where they would lead to. This worked pretty well for the majority of the day. Then Fiona, who was riding up front, started picking some smaller, steeper and rockier trails. At first I was up for the challenge but then the trail started to get extremely narrow, almost completely covered in dry grass shrubs with a pretty intimidating drop to the left of me. I was definitely out of my comfort zone! Fiona continued but soon came to a stop as the trail suddenly ended. Turning the bikes around on this steep and ridiculously narrow trail was a mission. The sun was also about to set so we called it a day and started heading back. Fiona was leading the way and as always on steeper sections I kept a safe distance. Once she cleared the first part, I followed when I suddenly heard a scream in my intercom. I had no idea what was happening around the corner but I came to a complete stop, towards the end of a steep, rocky trail. Fiona was fine. She hadn’t come off. But I had put myself in a terrible position. I tried to pull off, slipping the clutch ever so slightly, while paddling with my long legs, before committing to throttle out of it. Big mistake! Suddenly the bike wasn’t moving. I was in gear, the bike wasn’t stalling but I wasn’t moving either. My initial thoughts were that I burned out the clutch disks. In the middle of nowhere, on a steep trail, just as the sun was setting. Great! We made a few calls to get some help. Then Antonio from Billy Goat Garage who also runs the Triumph Adventure Centre offered to rescue us. He had finished work already, cancelled his plans for the evening and didn’t even hesitate to help out some stranded bikers. It took over an hour for him to meet us at the beginning of the trail. We had ridden two up out of the National Park to make sure that we didn’t have to ride off-road when it’s pitch black. We were so happy to see him pull in with a trailer and our friend Kate who happened to be with Antonio when we called her initially for help. Fiona and I jumped in the car and the four of us made our way to the bike. Of course the trails were far too narrow to fit a car and a trailer. But luckily we were only 400 metres from the dirt road where we could park the car. As we walked down the trail we all started realising that it would be pretty hard work to push the bike up, especially with all the rocks and shrubs along the way. And it was brutal! I wondered if we would make it. But Antonio had a wealth of experience rescuing bikes from the mountains. As annoying as it was dealing with this in the dark, he never had any doubts that we would eventually push the bike up, strap it onto the trailer and tow it back to his garage! All that and a big smile on his face and the reassurance that it was “no trouble at all”. 

I’ve never replaced clutch discs before and I had no idea how big of a job it was. But what I certainly wasn’t expecting is that the entire clutch needed replacing! I knew I had a habit of slipping the clutch too often, but I didn’t realise that the clutch on my Tiger had to be adjusted every once in a while. So over time, despite only having 15,000 km on the clock, my clutch had given up on me! It was an expensive lesson to learn. Once again we had to order spare parts and once again we knew that they would be held at customs for a little while. 

By now we knew the drill, so we made the most of it by exploring this region of Spain two up until my Tiger was ready to go. We were in Andalusia after all and there was a ton to see and explore! One of the best biking roads with sweeping fast corners led us up to Ronda. It’s a charming town with an impressive stone bridge spanning across the gorge which splits the old town into two parts. It’s a great destination for an epic bike ride and we particularly enjoyed the dramatic views from the bridge overlooking the houses precipitously hanging over the edge of the Tajo gorge. And of course we visited the beautiful cities of Cordoba and Seville, admiring its fascinating, moorish architecture. 10 days and many tapas later, we were finally able to collect my Tiger in Malaga and continue into Portugal. 

We rode out of Spain with a lot of appreciation for what it had offered us. Brilliant off-road adventures through diverse landscapes. Twisty mountain roads with scenic views over the mountain ranges. And an abundance of culture and delicious tapas. We knew we would be back some day to explore more trails in this off-road wonderland. 

Fiona is riding a lowered Tiger 900 Rally Pro which has been fully customised with a Touratech Suspension lowering shock and progressive fork springs which reduces the height of the bike by 2cm. In addition her lowered seat decreases the height of her bike by a further 2-3 cm and doesn’t interfere with the heated seat functionality which usually doesn’t work with lowered seats. This enables Fiona at 1.62m to reach the ground with her feet. 

Sandra’s Tiger 900 Rally Pro is fitted with the Touratech Suspension shock absorber. It increases the height of the bike slightly, offering more travel suspension and ground clearance.

Both bikes are fitted with a range of Touratech accessories including handlebar risers, headlamp guards, chain guards, Expedition engine guards, crash bars, side stand base extensions and ‘Works’ long distance footpegs to offer maximum protection for off-road riding. 

Sandra and Fiona quit their jobs in 2018 to travel the world. They rode from Canada to Colombia two up on their BMW F800 GS. Since the pandemic they have been riding all over Europe on their Tiger 900 Rally Pro and since November last year they are travelling on two Tigers. They are getting ready to ride to Africa this March! 

Fiona is 32 and has always been drawn to motorbikes. She got to ride a small Kawasaki 125cc two stroke dirtbike in Idaho during a basic off-road training in 2018. She didn’t shy away from the obstacle course and was hooked from the get go! During our return to Europe when the pandemic hit she immediately jumped onto the opportunity to take her licence. We have been on two motorbikes ever since! 

Sandra is 35 and used to ride a naked bike. When she quit her job to travel the world she bought a BMW F800GS although she had never ridden an Adventure Bike before. What was initially supposed to be a 3 months USA trip, quickly turned into a round-the-world adventure as her and Fiona fell in love with the sense of freedom and lifestyle. They are are planning to be on the road for the next 5 years.

Check out www.advtravelbug.com if you want to find out more about Sandra & Fiona. They are also sharing their adventures on YouTube and you can follow them across their other social media platforms. 

YouTube: ADV Travelbug
Instagram / Tik Tok: @adv_travelbug
Facebook: ADV Travelbug 

 

 



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