TRAVEL | NORTHERN CALIFORNIA BDR
The new Northern California BDR leads through some of the state's most scenic regions. There are semi-deserts, forests and high plateaus to cross - and plenty of peaks to climb. For particularly adventurous riders, there are some alternative routes with a higher level of difficulty.
Right in the heart of the Sierra Nevada, near Mammoth, California, is one of the best ski resorts in the United States. And this is exactly where the Northern California BDR starts. This region has made headlines in recent years, especially with its breath-taking snow depths. Great for the skiers, but not for the planners of the latest BDR, who had to wait for what felt like an eternity for the white splendour to melt at high altitudes. Now, however, the route is complete and officially open. High time to take on the full length of the route with our adventure bikes.
The rock-strewn tracks were the ultimate endurance test for Touratech Suspension's suspension.
STRONG START
Just a few minutes' drive outside of Mammoth, we already have flowing trails under our lugs on our way into the Inyo National Forest. Given the mountainous terrain, the trails are surprisingly sandy, taking some of us aback at first. The winding routes through sparse pine forests put a smile on our faces - while the occasional challenges significantly raise our adrenaline levels. Some sections have long hairpin bends that we would have expected to find on a motocross track rather than a forest road. Part of our group is Richie Few, an instructor from the BMW Performance Centre. I try to follow in his footsteps and use my helmet camera to capture the light-footed way he sweeps over the trails. Richie is a magician on his BMW R 1250 GS, and it looks so playful how he moves his 300-kilo load over the challenging terrain.
Arrival at the Sierra Buttes Fire Lookout.
THE CONQUEST OF MT. PATTERSON
Adventure riders looking for riding challenges will get their money's worth on the Northern California BDR. One particularly exciting section is the ride up Mt Patterson. Rugged would be an understatement for this section. The track is interspersed with rocks and deeply rutted by erosion gullies. There are also tight hairpin bends, enormous gradients - and thin air. We have already reached our limits several times with the large motorbikes during our summit assault when we finally pass the tree line. One last steep climb lies between us and the 3,558 metre summit, the highest point in the Sweetwater Mountains. We tackle the ascent individually and are finally able to park our bikes on the summit plateau. We enjoy the view in all directions and are a little amazed that we have conquered this summit on our adventure bikes. Not without envy, Ritchie says: “That's not possible in South Carolina”.
One of the countless viewpoints.
“I'M GLAD IT WASN'T EVEN HARDER.”
The timely localisation of a forest fire has always been a crucial step in firefighting. Before the advent of satellite imagery and other technologies, this was done by placing a person in a small hut on a mountain who could determine the location of the fire based on a map and estimated distance. Some of these outposts are still manned in the summer months, but most are not. Nevertheless, many fire towers are well preserved and provide a great opportunity to survey the surrounding area in all directions. We visited most of the nearly a dozen towers along the route - and some of them offer the most difficult climbs I've ever tackled. When I get to the top of the Sierra Buttes, completely out of breath and surprised that I made it, I look at Ritchie and say, “Man, that was tough”. He grins and says, “I'm glad it wasn't any harder.” I take this as a small token of appreciation for our driving performance.
We get wet feet again and again...
UNCLE TOM'S CABIN
The weather changes and we find ourselves in cold rain and thick snow flurries north of Bear Valley. It's a long, gruelling day and I'm grateful to have heated grips on my GS. Fortunately, this miserable day has a warm surprise in store. A nondescript, muddy road takes us a short distance off the main track before we set our sights on an ageing rural homestead with a few dilapidated outbuildings on a grassy wilderness. After parking the bikes, we find a place to sleep in the primitive wooden huts. Ritchie points to one of the buildings and says, “Look at that”. I seem to look confused, so he adds: “There's a bar in there.” I say, “Yeah, right,” my voice dripping with sarcasm. Richie insists I come with him. When I open the door, I can't believe my eyes. It's a tiny saloon, heated by a wood-burning stove, with a ceiling littered with dollar notes that leave not a square inch uncovered.
‘Uncle Tom's Cabin’: legendary bar in the middle of nowhere.
Half a dozen people are drinking cold drinks in this warm oasis and two guys are playing music. As I struggle to comprehend this scene, I recognise the faces of the musicians. I mumble, “Holy shit, that's Owen Balduf and Chris Wilson”. Many know Owen from his work at Long Beach BMW Motorcycles and Rawhyde Adventures, or from having serenaded many motorbike events with his electric violin. Chris is an accomplished musician and composer known for scoring Hollywood films such as Clueless and My Big Fat Greek Wedding. He has also written the soundtrack to recent BDR documentaries. Both have strapped their musical instruments to their adventure bikes and travelled here to surprise us. We hug and drink and dance as we enjoy this get-together.
The bartenders work on a voluntary basis to maintain the tradition of this special place. They tell us about the history and we learn that the name has nothing to do with the anti-slavery novel Uncle Tom's Cabin by Harriet Beecher Stowe. They even teach us the regulars' dice game, which I play until I run out of one-dollar notes and head for my sleeping bag. What a night!
Flowing forest trail - perfect for our adventure bikes.
JOURNEY INTO THE PAST
A local historian explains life in the mining town of Bodie, CA.
Backcountry Discovery Routes provide deep insights into the state you are travelling through, and the Northern California BDR is no exception. This route is characterised by California's mining history, which we experience impressively during our visit to the gold mining town of Bodie. Nestled between rolling hills of yellow grass lies a ghost town with 200 buildings left to decay. In the brief period from 1877 to 1882, Bodie was a bustling town with a population of almost 8,000. A local historian guides us through the site and tells us stories about life in this town. The walk through the remains of the Standard Gold Mill is particularly sobering and shows us the miserable conditions under which people here chased the dream of wealth.
The picturesque backdrop of the mining ghost town of Bodie, CA.
Again and again we pass abandoned settlements from the pioneer era.
ABOUT NORTHERN CALIFORNIA BDR
The Northern California BDR leads from Mammoth Lakes, CA to the Oregon border. It is divided into nine stages, is around 1,500 kilometres long and can be completed in six to ten days. The longest distance without refuelling is around 200 kilometres. There are motels and hotels in the towns along the route, some of which have a long and exciting history. Designated public campgrounds are located in the national forests and other towns along the route. In terms of riding, the Northern California BDR is in the mid-range of BDRs, but offers some ‘ALT Harder’ and three optional ‘ALT Expert’ sections, providing alternative routes for particularly experienced riders.
Many sections of the Northern California BDR are technically demanding.
ABOUT BACKCOUNTRY DISCOVERY ROUTES
The author follows Trevor Doniak from Zero Motorcycles and Ritchie Few from the BMW Offroad Academy on a track in the Sierra.
Backcountry Discovery Routes® (BDR®) is a non-profit (501c(3)) organisation that develops off-highway routes for dual-sport and adventure motorbike travel. The Northern California BDR is the 13th complete BDR with GPS tracks that has been made available to the general public free of charge. The organisation's mission also includes motorcyclist education, safety campaigns and the promotion of responsible backcountry motorcyclist travel. The organisation works closely with authorities and land managers to keep trails and remote roads open for motorcycling. All BDR routes are designed to avoid urban centres, use as many unpaved roads as possible and allow riders to experience the character of a state or region. They cross public land, often in the mountains or in rural areas. The development team endeavours to integrate as many lonely stretches of road as possible into the route, taking care to ensure that driving enjoyment is not neglected. Interesting landscapes, sights and historically significant places also have a high priority.
Each route creates new tourism that enables sustainable economic development for disadvantaged rural communities. In this way, local interest groups are created that are committed to maintaining access for adventure riders to these breath-taking regions off the beaten track.
About the Author
